Time to machine some aluminum clamps for a nice vise.
To be used on the palet of my Intelys C3000.
First time I am using 3D printing to check the part before wasting material and time with CNC milling: very useful, let me fix some design flaws before machining!
A good friend of mine gave me an Inca 260 bandsaw.
Unfortunately, the original miter gage has been lost.
Found a good design on thingiverse (www.thingiverse.com/thing:505852) that I have tuned for this machine.
This derivative design is available from here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3679405
The little support for the lever of the door switch is broken.
Trying to glue it without success.
So, I switched to a 3D printed spare part! 
Slicing with Simplify3D
The 3D printing job
The knob to lock the door of the electrical accessories box was broken. After an hour of CAD, here is a brand new one 3D printed with PLA material !
After trying to implement auto bed leveling feature with a retractable switch, I decided to use a small induction sensor. I experienced poor mechanical reliability with the retractable switch mostly because the PLA bracket was melting when the 2 extruders were hot.
I have modified the original hot end holder design by Ultimaker so that a support plate for the induction sensor can be tightly screwed.
Here is the original design compared to the new one
Original design
New design
The induction sensor is a TL-Q5MC1-Z from Omron. Even it is rated for 10 to 30 VDC power supply, it works very well down to 2.5V, including the embedded red LED indicator. The detection distance of the aluminum plate is about 2mm. So I have replaced the 3mm glass plate by kapton tape to accommodate this short detection range.
The sensor is connected to GND, +5V and Pin13 of the Ultimaker controller board so that the ZMIN endstop switch is still active. Keeping the ZMIN endstop is useful for security reason in situation where the induction sensor does not work anymore, or the aluminum bed is not present.
TL-Q5MC1-Z connection (brown, blue, black wires)
I have modified the Marlin firmware as below:
The project resources are available here:
This gallery contains 2 photos.
I have added a nice Jason HK heated bed to my Ultimaker Original. The cables are guided by a nice cable chain and remixed clips. See following links to get the STL files for you own printer: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/heat-bed-wire-clip-for-um-original-remix http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:247573
There is enough space in the bottom of the Ultimaker Original to integrate a power supply able to drive a heated bed. I have also found some room for a Raspberry Pi running OctoPrint.
Now, everything is integrated in my UMO, no more external boxes and cables.
This gallery contains 2 photos.
This mounting bracket is designed for Logitech C525 webcam. Should works also for other webcam of the C500 series. Pressure for the webcam attachment is a little bit too weak. May need some double face tape to strength up the … Continue reading